Our main holiday destination was Nkwichi Lodge, a wilderness lodge on the shores of Lake Nyassa.
After an early night at Cobue, we boarded our boat the “Miss Nkwichi” that was to take us to the lodge. (the boat has arrived the evening before to be ready for our 8am departure). The lodge can only be reached by boat which is a treat.The journey took us south toward Metangula, and was easy going on the lake when we are so used to being on the sea. Slowly slowly we moved toward our resting place, giving us time to appreciate the forest scenery on the shore and the rocky scenery just off the shore. Cormorants gather on the rocks cutting a fine shape in the turquoise of the water and sky.
I was looking for signs of the Nkwichi buildings because it seems what most people have to say about arriving here is that they never knew anything existed inside the trees until they were there. I was almost their next victim of this cunning subterfuge but right at the last minute spotted a yellow thatch roof. I felt so proud of my great eyesight until I was told the reason I could see it was because it was new and the thatch hadn’t had time to turn brown and blend in.
We arrived at the jetty where the staff were already waiting to greet us. It was kind of like arriving at someone’s home and being welcomed with open arms. First impressions last and so did the first actions of the people of Nkwichi because for our entire stay there they were just as friendly and welcoming.

For two days we lazed, lounged and did nothing more than swim, enjoy our “house” set amongst the trees, and eat. Breakfast we had at our house, nothing like a lazy start to the day, enjoying coffee and slowly getting up for the day. For lunch we could choose where we wanted to eat, be it on the beach or on the platform overlooking the lake, the location was always a perfect accompaniament. Dinner we enjoyed together with other guests and our hosts. This usually followed sundowner drinks around a fire on the beach, my favourite part of the day.

The highlights of a stay full of great memories would be the christmas carols sung to us around the fire on Christmas Eve. The choir is made up of young boys and girls, and some men and women from the Anglican church in a nearby village. It was a real gift for us to see such warmth and enjoyment in the singing. Having a bath full of bubbles in the outside bath while the rain fell through the tree canopy above.  A visit to the Nkwichi working farm, where they grow their own vegetables as well as teaching representatives from surrounding villages better farming practices, and paper recycling. Encouraging to see such committment to helping the community. Christmas dinner with loads of great food (they did a splendid job of catering for us vegetarians!) and pulling crackers filled with African beaded keyrings, nice touch. Walking on the beach without lifting my feet just to hear the sqeechy noise of the white sand, after all this is why the lodge is called “Nkwichi”, because of the sound of the sand underfoot!

We were very sad to leave, but that is the thing about treats, they don’t last forever, nor are they everyday occurrences. As in arriving to a warm welcome we left with a warm farewell, the staff lined up on the jetty waving until we could no longer see them, giving us one final perfect memory, and a lasting impression of how perfect Nkwichi is.

 Thank you Patrick and staff!!

For a change of scenery and an excuse to go away for holiday, we decided to head off to Niassa Province, and Lago Niassa in particular, for our year end adventure.

Car packed, (some) reservations made we headed for the hills of Lichinga and then Cobue, a far stretch away from Nampula. We split the drive over two days. The first day we drove nine hours to get to Mandimba, the town on the border with Malawi. There we spent the night in the Massinga Accommodation which consisted of a small round bungalow in the back yard and a basic restaurant. Entertainment was free as we watched an endless ant stream of “helpers” carry stock that had just arrived when the truck got stuck in the mud out front. Two beers or an hour later and we could still make out the strange shapes of people with boxes on their heads bent over in the pouring rain. What Massinga lacked in luxury was made up for by the staff. Our waiter impressed us hugely when he was able to accommodate us on our vegetarian meal request and organised a delicious meal of leafy greens and tomato relish with nsima.

Day two was far more exciting as we drove through virgin territory (for both of us). From Mandimba to Lichinga took two and a half hours but it felt like we had crossed over into a totally different country. The road was tarred and wound its way around and over hills. There is plenty of farming going on here (mainly maize and tobacco) and the villages are very different to what we are used to in Nampula Province, they are large and ordered with brick huts lined up neatly next to one another, overlooking the hills. Lichinga itself promises to be a very pretty little city in the right season, there are Jacarandas lining the roads which must look spectacular in October. Arriving in the city we drive through a mini pine forest which adds a special touch but it is small and the outskirts busy and dusty and so after a short stop at the supermarket and drive by buying of bread, we carried on to Metangula and Cobue.

Carrying on up and up the hills we eventually arrived at the top and looked down on Metangulo and our first view of the lake. From this distance it could be a small harbour town anywhere in the world with its pretty bays and buildings peeping out on the green hills. Up close many of these buildings are semi ruins and the town is quiet but there is evidence of houses being fixed and Metangulo seems a chilled place to be but as it was only just after lunch time, we decided to go ahead to Cobue and get the journey over with.

We were very lucky that President Guebeza had visited Cobue only the day before and so the roads were new and with no or little traffic, in perfect condition. (plenty of people had warned us that the roads here were bad so we felt especially lucky). Just after Metangulo we passed through some very pretty villages with pergolas set up to train blinding pink bouganvilleas and passion plants. Then the villages stopped and we wound our way through woody wilderness, completely alone until finally spotting the lake again before a particularly steep descent. And then we were in Cobue, the furthest point in the north west of Mozambique, the far corner of the country, the end of the road, literally.

Cobue is a small town right on the shores of the lake. There isn’t much here except the road down to the lake, the ruins of an old church which the guidebook tells me is Catholic and others working here say was Anglican, and a small immigration office in case you’re going to Malawi, which we were, but more on that later. We spent the night in Cobue right at the water’s edge at a relatively new local run place called Khanga Beach. This included very basic grass huts with bed and table, a communal long drop toilet and separate shower but was well run with personal touches. Having drinks in the evening at the main bar area, the owner sat down with us to discuss what we would like for dinner and the meal we got was fabulous. In the morning there was heated water waiting in buckets by the shower and coffee afterwards. Just the day before our arrival the president and his ‘men’ stayed at this very place so we felt honoured. The only problem we had at Khanga was the lake flies slipping through our mosquito net, actually dropping through and landing on our skin, not a very nice sensation, until the lights went out at around 10 (and we put a sheet over the top of the net). All in all, Cobue was a very pleasant surprise.

I made a mission today of finding some Peaceful Sleep aerosol repellent. The shop I usually get from was out of stock and Shoprite hasn’t had it for ages. After a couple more unsuccessful attempts I had a brainwave and made my way over to the ‘malaria shop’. This is a small shop close to Shoprite that stocks all things to prevent malaria, nets, repellent, citronella candles and then things like protective work clothing (don’t ask why, it just is). So, the first thing I see walking in the door is shelves of repellent. Not only do they have the Peaceful Sleep aerosol but they have the Tabard one too. Most things have the price written on a label on the shelf below but the aerosols not. Asking the assistant, he flippantly tells me that Tabard is 180Mtn and Peaceful Sleep is 230Mtn. I say flippantly because such declarations have their own health hazard, choking by shock. I know that in other shops, when they have it, this same Peaceful Sleep costs about 75-85 Mtn, how can they, the people who are there to help people prevent malaria, honestly charge such a huge, ridiculous amount?
No wonder their shelves are full? Not many people here can afford to buy anything at their prices.

And so, tail between legs I went back to Shoprite, and bought the Tabard cream for 115Mtn.

It’s the time of year again when there are people coming and going, collecting their money and bonus and arranging their leave. The office is busy trying to tie up all ends now that the end of the year has come.

It has been a busy year, an important year for Fresh and for the Topuito Project. An investor fell in love with the isles and signed on, and with more money coming in, the camp at Larde has grown twofold, trucks are on their way up from Maputo, staff and volunteers have been recruited, most starting early 2009, some have already begun and most significantly, wood has been bought!

Closing December 22nd until January 5th, the people of Fresh will need a break as they have worked hard the whole year with many putting in so many extra hours they almost forgot they had another life called home.

Of course with all the good this year there have been the usual share of setbacks from delayed CPI approval to problems with new boat engines delivered pre-broken to KPMG delaying the investment with unfortunate mistakes.

Now with the rainy season that has finally arrived comes a season, albeit brief, or rest. We all need it, next year is going to be full steam ahead…..

Thank you to all the people in Fresh who have helped us achieve so much this year.

They arrived a few months ago and have already settled into the house as if they had been here all along and now I can’t think of home without Buzz and Islander, gifts from Brett and Elsa who have travelled to Chimoio after working in Moma.

It has always been a name on a map, a place that might be nice to visit someday but actually going to the Gile Reserve made me think, “why haven’t I done this before?”

As part of their Anchor Site program, the Mozambican Ministry of Tourism (FUTUR) and the IFC (International Finance Corporation), are looking for investors in the Gile Anchor Site which includes two islands of the Primeras and Secundas Archipelago. The idea behind this anchor site is to set up a couple of lodges or resorts on the two islands, Casuarina Island and Epidendron Island, with the option of later developing some sort of lodge or resort on a concession in the reserve. The investment in the island resorts will help pay for some of the restoration and preservation costs of the reserve. The eventual idea would be to have an opportunity to offer a combination package to guests, to spend time on one of two beautiful remote islands and then visit an off the beaten track wilderness area.

So, being interested, we went to have a look. But first we needed to see what it all looked like from above and chartered a plane to take us over the reserve and then the islands. The Gile Reserve from above is simply amazing. Almost the entire area is covered in forest and even now in the dry season it all looks so green. There are a couple of inselberg formations which have their own forest ecologies growing on them. The two rivers bordering the reserve, the Molocue and the Mulela, are surrounded by lush riverine forest.

The next day, we drove three hours out of Nampula to see what the view was like from the other side, the ground. Arriving in Gile Town in the evening we spent some time getting to know some of the people from IGF, a French NGO working to conserve the Reserve. After a couple of beers we reached lights out time (the town generator goes off at 10pm) and settled into bed at the pensao, which was clean and quite pleasant. (I always expect the worst so was happily surprised)

The next morning we set off for the actual reserve. Once we entered the gates, it was like the other Mozambique ceased to exist, the one where there is always a village in sight or cassava fields. Here there was us and the forest. The reserve is made up of Miombo woodlands and there are a few open grassland dambos but on this first day we saw only forest. And beautiful forest it is, with a few varieties of orchids visible on the trees, slashes of light shining green throught the trees and a sense of quiet immersion with the nature surrounding us.

In one day we manage to drive the ‘road’ traversing the reserve, stopping briefly outside Malema before driving on the outskirts to get to the main camp at Mualama where we spent the night. The next day we have time for a quick (3 hour) jaunt to find the inselbergs and a quick climb up one to see the view – this is the ideal spot for a lodge with views over the reserve forests, feeling like one of the gods atop Mount Olympus. Unfortunately we can also see smoke from the fires that poachers in the reserve make to trap animals then leave them to burn without control. This is one of the first tasks of the IGF, to control the poaching and fire problems.

There is so much more I could say about Gile but here there isn’t enough space. It may have been work that took us there but I think I got more pleasure out of it than anything else. A thanks to the IGF and the Reserve Manager who hosted us and I look forward to seeing their progress in keeping this pristine piece of wilderness alive.

After many months of being away I finally got a chance to visit the mainland camp at Larde. And after so long, there are many new, exciting changes in the camp.

The bread oven is now fully functional and we enjoyed delicious warm baked bread for breakfast. Coming soon will be the layer chickens so fresh eggs will be added to the fare available.

For the first time I slept in a bed in one of the houses and not a tent, what a pleasure! The houses have now coat some paint on the outside and soon the inside of each will be painted too, making them ‘real’ houses at last. I’m sure this will make a big difference to the guys staying there. Everything is ready for the plumbing, which will bring showers and flush toilets!! Most exciting!

But one of the best new happenings at Larde definately has to be the canteen. Almost finished, the canteen has a kitchen and storeroom, a toilet and a large open sitting area where the staff can eat and gather socially. If all goes well a Tv will be installed (depending on the pending electricity coming soon to Larde).

The new manager is coming soon all the way from Germany and he will be helping the staff set up a carpentry and joinery workshop to supply materials for the islands. Staff will also have the chance to learn new carpentry skills from him. A training room will be part of the new workshop buildings which are next on the list of what to build.

We weren’t there nearly long enough as we had to get back to Nampula to complete some important proposal work but I am guessing that next time I will be happy to stay a few days, the camp is now like a proper living area and I am looking forward to fresh bread and eggs for breakfast!

Staff houses at Larde

Staff canteen at Larde

Getting a household together from scratch in Nampula is a bit of a challenge. And an effort. The challenge is in finding all the usual household things without too much problem. The effort is the marching up and down to all sorts of shops one would never usually notice to find these same things. I have been getting quite good at it now, pratice that I’ve had.

I now know where to get material, and a good tailor to make sheets, curtains etc. I know where the best pillows are and a decent mattress at a decent price. I also know my way around buying plastics such as tupperwares, buckets and bins. I have a fair idea about furniture, even though the choice isn’t good.

But what has been alluding me for weeks has been the purchase of plates. Normal serving size dinner plates. I have sideplates and bowls and funky square bowls and pasta shallow bowls and cups and saucers. But plates seem harder to come by. (There are sets available but wanting more than 4 of each, not liking the pattern or colours and already having all the other crockery I have been looking in particular for plates sold in the singular).

After a few fruitless searches and lots of frustration I decided to give up with the active search, taking the much more Nampulan way of thinking that one day I will come across what I want, so until then, don’t worry about it.

This theory worked quicker than I thought and Sunday, helping a friend find flip flops at the market, plates were found! There was an awkward moment when I almost got 5 blue plates and one marroon but after a bitof discussion and lifting of displays I came away with 3 blue and 3 green simple but bright plates. Perfect.

In the same way, friends came by the lounge suite they have been looking for for months, perhaps even years, when shopping for their son’s birthday present, they got more than they bargained for.

The moral here is when in Nampula, have patience, all things come to those who wait, some just might take a bit longer than others!

As the sun sets, around 5:50pm, the darkness that descends on Nampula is broken by the sharp sounds of sudden slaps coming from within the households as people settle in for the night. Or so I imagine. It is like this in my house every night that I am no longer taken by surprise, my heart ripped out of my skin, at the startling clap of hands on either side of a mosquito. In fact, I have quite taken to the sport myself, risking stings and the embarassment of clear missed swoops, all in the name of getting as many of the pests as possible. It doesn’t help, there are hundreds of them still but the moment, right after the clap, that reveals a dark smear on the palms, is reward enough.

There are other forms of mosquito slapping that require equipment more than mere hands. The Chinese shop sells mosquito zapping racquets – they have uv lights to attract the prey who get zapped in the mesh – which can be bought in pairs and a match arranged, remember to move the furniture to make some space. Then there is the more docile form of the sport, known as watching the mechanical mosquito slapper – or more commonly known as ‘the killer’ – which involves none other than a cold beer and comfy chair from which to watch those mossies get fried. (Equipment is a standing form of the racquet)

I have heard of pillow slapping, or toss the pillow at the mosquito, but this variety lends itself to more misses than hits and can be a form of frustration, especially as it seems to be played in the small hours of the morning, after being either rudely awoken or kept awake for hours.

The most dangerous form of mosquito slapping has to be mosquito slapping in the shower as it involves a subtle mix of awareness, aim, coordination and balance. One sudden move and you could be on the floor with bruised limbs and ego as the ones that got away hover above just out of reach of your soap waving arm.

What I know about the rubbish in Nampula is limited to the piles of it lying around on the pavements, spilling sometimes onto the streets. Ok, there is a lot of it but still, this is as far as my awareness went. But I have recently come across the politics of rubbish disposal in this city. I’m not sure if it is true or not and am only quoting someone else.

It first started when I noticed that during the day our empregada, the lovely Virginia, would empty the rubbish bin onto the lawn (or other random spot) and leave it there. When asking about this I was told that it is left there for the guarda who comes at night to take care of. By why? Apparently night is the time to put your rubbish in those oh so effective public rubbish bins, or rather on to the street. I still can’t quite figure out why this is. I have been told it is something to do with when the city collects the rubbish, which apparently they do during the day. I like to think that perhaps it is because dumping your rubbish next to some rusting piece of metal on the pavement is some cause for embarrasment. Then again, maybe not. I will just have to accept it as one of those strange Nampula things unless someone cares to enlighten me…